Karl LAGERFELD and his arrival at CHANEL in 1984.

Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019)

Signed autograph letter.

Six folio pages on paper with his initials. Slnd [1984]

“They have just signed with Inès de la Fressange who will be the Chanel image and on whom (and for whom) I will design everything. »

Great letter from the German fashion designer, newly invested at Chanel, who is organizing the launch of the Coco as well as the spotlighting of its muse Inès de la Fressange.

“My dear Lorraine, I was delighted to hear from you.  I have always tried to find a way to find you an interesting position in my business. This time I found it I think. You will receive a call from Michel Pietrini, the president of Chanel, who would like to speak to you and who will offer you something.

At the beginning at Chanel the couture studios and P. to p. [ready to wear] were run by the same person but things have grown to such an extent that we have to separate everything (while staying together) everyone works with everyone but we have 2 couture collections – 2 P to p collections – 1 “cruise” collection – 2 “capsule” collections. Which makes a total of 7 collections. Martine Cartageni takes care of the sewing but Marianne Houdin who took care of Fr. on p. left for my place in KL because she only got along with me and the Chanel people didn't like her and she hated them (wrongly, but as for me she was 100% I didn't blame her) . Martine had thought she could coordinate everything with assistants but it is impossible. It takes an iron fist like yours to follow all the collections from p to p (5 per year). A person cannot follow 7 who also at one time mix up and fall into the same dates. Gilles Dufour is my personal assistant in all this but does not take care of the organization and as I am very busy elsewhere I need everything to run smoothly without wasting any time.

If in all this you manage to find something with Pietrini I would be delighted. At some point everyone helps everyone but you need leaders in each sector. I think for Fr. on p. you are perfect. I called your house before giving Pietrini your number but no answer. I'm going to NY for 5 days. I'm coming back Monday. I hope you will have seen Pietrini before because it is urgent. June 15 we must finish the “Cruise” collection and at the beginning of September the Capsule and October 15 Fr. at p with between the end of July Haute Couture which this time must be particularly good because they are launching a new perfume (“Coco” but we must not say the name yet) officially called le 31. They have just signed with Inès de la Fressange who is going to be the Chanel image and who (and for whom) I am going to design everything because she is the ideal version of this look . I kiss you very much. Karl. »

Coco is a perfume from the house of Chanel, created in 1984 (as indicated in our letter) by perfumer Jacques Polge. Its name of course pays homage to the founder of the House, Coco Chanel. The perfume is initially represented by Inès de la Fressange; Vanessa Paradis will succeed him as muse.

In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld was appointed artistic director for all of the “Haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections” of the house of Chanel, then in great difficulty. Lagerfeld had to relaunch the brand and chose, in 1984, Inès de la Fressange to represent the image of Chanel.